A couple of years ago I was ending my contract in Barcelona. Having ended my contract their a few times and spent a few days in the city to see everything. I decided to head straight to Jordon and Egypt. My main goal was to do a live aboard dive trip and dive the Thistlegorm shipwreck in the Red sea. Not being the back packer type, but I am also am not 5 stars, I tend to be around 3 stars. I like my own room, breakfast included if possible and one bill for the whole lot at the end, on a low budget.
Instead of just stopping off and diving the shipwreck on my way home. This time I would do some traveling around the area and see the sites.
Here are a few things I learnt from traveling Europe and top of Africa by online booking yourself.
As I was stuck on the ship my only option was to hunt online for flights, hotels and tours. I started my plan many months before, deciding where to go and what to do.
The plan was to fly to Amman, Jordan from Barcelona the day I left the ship. I would have 3 nights in Jordan to see Petra, sleep in a Bedouin tent in Wadi Rum and float in the Dead Sea.
I would then fly on to Cairo for 4 nights to see the pyramids and the Cairo Museum.
Then onward to Hurghada for a week off relaxing, followed by a week onboard the live a board dive boat. Finishing off, with a night in Cairo for flight home.
Easy right………
Flights online
Hunting flights easy stuff you say, done it a million times you say. Went to my normal site, webjet and searched by sections. Barcelona to Amman, Amman to Cairo and Cairo to Hurghada return.
Without a word of a lie every one of my flights was changed or canceled, one without telling me.
First my flight from Cairo to Hurghada was changed to the next day. This was no good to me I had already booked and paid for accommodation in Hurghada. The airline had no other options for that day, so I had to cancel. I got my money back but having to re-book at last minute cost me a lot more.
The flight from Amman to Cairo, the time was changed to leave 2 hours later.
The kicker
My flight from Barcelona to Amman was with Royal Jordanian Air, but managed by Iberia. This flight was canceled, unknown to me. I arrive at Barcelona airport. Hunt my 2pm flight on screen and cannot find it. Ask at the information desk at airport and am told it was now at 8pm. Waited around till check in opens at 6pm, queue up. By time I get to the desk its past 7. Only to be told sorry sir we do not have you on this flight. Produce my printed booking page form the website, LUCKY I HAD IT.
Check in operator acknowledges I have a booking but does not see me on the new flight. He sends me to Iberia desk to confirm. This is where I started to panic; Iberia wanted nothing to do with me. Was told they emailed to say the 2pm flight was cancelled and do I want to move to 8pm flight, but got no response so cancelled my booking, and her words after that where “next please”.
Back to Royal Jordanian Airline desk and explain to them my situation. Lucky for me the supervisor had heard it all before and was angry for Iberia for not helping anyone and he printed me a boarding pass.
Raced through customs and made my flight.
Made me think was it because I did not book through the airline that I did not get the email to tell of this change. Sitting next to me was a lovely couple from Australia and we got talking. I explained what just happened and they said same thing happened to them as well. They told me they had booked through Iberia and yet they still got no email and they got the same response from the first 6 or 7 check in desks they went to, lucky the last one, understood their situation and moved them to the 8pm flight.
Hotels and tours
Jordan
Next are Hotels and Tours. I need a hotel in Amman and somehow I need to get around most of the country in 2 days. Cairo I need a hotel close to the museum and a tour to the pyramids. Lastly I need a resort in Hurghada for 6 nights before the dive boat. Dive boat was booked at the very beginning.
Me I like to do one credit card transaction. If I can get the whole lot as a package I will and saves hassling of carry small change for Taxi’s etc.
Jordan no problem found a selection of hotels on line, most had airport up and drop offs and some had tours as well. I picked Sydney hotel, for less than 500 JOD I got airport pick to and from hotel. Two night’s accommodation at their hotel in Amman and One night’s accommodation in a Bedouin tent in middle of Wadi Rum. A driver and a car to get me around Jordan for 2 days, we drove Amman to Petra, on to Wadi Rum for a night. Next day it was down to Aqaba, up the border with Israel to the Dead Sea for my swim. Lastly back to Amman. Throw in a Camel ride and 4X4 ride in Wadi Rum on top. I know if you had more time you could do it cheaper by bus or rent a car but my plan was to get to Hurghada and relax ASAP.
All of it was a great trip; the driver who picked me up from airport dropped me and drove me round the country. Off course my flight from Barcelona now landed at 12.30am, but was no issue the driver was there at no extra cost.
They even advised me of the Jordan pass, this is something you buy online. It gets you into Petra and many other sites for free and waives the tourist entry visa fee. There are different packages you check it out on line.
Cairo
Again I hunted the web, my criteria was, close to museum, hotel pick up and drop off and offers tours.
I picked Royal Hotel it advertised all those features and having heard the stories of Egypt and how bad the Hassle and scams where I wanted a smooth few days.
Walking out form flight to be greeted by dozens of Taxi companies pushing their service, I walked straight through to wait for my pick up. Hour or so later no pick up, using one of the taxi representatives to call the hotel, they had forgotten and advised me to get a Taxi, So I did.
In a nut shell the most crazy taxi ride I have ever had in my life. The Taxi driver was doing close to 100km an hour down side streets while on the phone and yelling out the window at anyone close by. At one point we missed an old lady crossing by less than a meter and for the drive to hang out the window and yell back at her, while still on phone, well to say was happy to get out of that Taxi. When we got to hotel the Taxi driver asked for a tip and was close to pulling my money out of my hand. I knew he took a lot more than should have. Then the hotel staff member started yelling at me as to why I gave him that much. At this point I lost it and was very loud in hotel as to why they were not at airport to greet me. That got me my airport drop off free.
The hotel was not like its photo’s (bit dated) but it had a bed, with breakfast and was in a huge room with a balcony, was OK.
Pyramid tour
Through the Hotel, I organized a tour to the pyramids, thinking this would be a better idea than off the street…………….. Yeah right
I really just wanted to go to the Pyramids and walk around them for a few hours. But somehow the tour I got took me to the pyramids of Memphis first. For $50 I got guide and driver I thought I just go alone with it. First stop was Statues of Rameses II was interesting and huge; off course there was the entrance fee into that one and the parking fee and then the touts, including the guide, trying to sell you dates and coffee.
Off to the pyramids of Memphis next, another fee to get in, plus parking. Add to this the guide trying to sell me her recordings on tape. The place was interesting few older small pyramids, but out the back you can get up high and you look out to just desert, as far as the eye can see. In the distance there is a couple of huge pyramids coming out of the desert, was very cool. Egypt has over 100 pyramids.
Got to go inside one of the pyramids and that was cool, there were paintings on the wall and had very few tourists in there. Off course there was another fee for that one.
Next was lunch and was taken to a really nice place by the water, was like someone’s back yard but was awesome food and he kept bring it. At the end the bill for all three of use only about $10 dollars, was the best lunch so far.
On to Giza
On to Giza you think, well no. we know make our way to the flax paper museum (shop). Inside I am shown how to make flax paper and all the art on the walls. It’s packed with tourists being dragged around by guides and pushed into a sale, including me. After 10 mins I leg it out of there to sit outside, was too much. I am followed outside for more pressure to buy, after 5 minutes of explaining to the guide and the sales person I am not interested and please just take me to the pyramids, we are off.
As we come around the corner there they are the great pyramids of Giza, looking out the window with wide eyes, for us only to drive right past and keep driving to the camel stables. Now I am being pressured to buy a caramel ride around the Pyramids. Having rode a camel in Wadi Rum and knowing how uncomfortable it is, that’s a hard NO. So now I am then urged into a horse and buggy. By now its 1.30 pm I am hot in the mid-day sun and getting over it so I take the cart for an over the top fee. Off to the gate we go, pay the fee to get in, and walk around to meet the horse and cart, O look different driver. As the new drive goes to get in and drive he walks up to the horse and full on punches it in the head. I am sitting in the cart in shock.
Heading up the hill past the first pyramid there seemed to be a huge hurry by the way he was whipping the horse like crazy. Up to the top and yes the view was awesome, took many pic a few selfies and noted the blood coming from the poor horse’s neck. All of about 5 minutes later (I am stretching it out as long as possible for horse to get his breath back) the driver is hurrying me to get in so we are off. Out comes his whip at which point I grabbed it and explained there was no hurry, slow slow.
Down to the bottom pyramid for a stop and walk up to the base. I reckon no more than 3 minutes and some local is telling me my guide is calling, again I made him wait. Down the hill and this time I made him stop for some more pictures. At the bottom was the best view but he would not stop so got bumpy pictures of that one. Back to the stables and that was it, what should have been 1 hour I think was over in 40 minutes or less.
Again A discussion with the guide was had due to this being what I wanted to see and all I got was 40 minutes, her reply was walk back in, get another ticket. At this point it was hot I was hot and over it all and I confined to the guide and driver, OK let’s to go.
Back in the car was advised we had one more stop at the perfume factory, at which point I made it quite clear was not interested and just take me back to the hotel please. Pyramid day done. What started as a $50 day tour probably cost me another $100 on top with everything.
Museum day
The Cairo museum was very cool, the building is old and they don’t have enough money to run air con, a few areas have a fan, so is hot inside, but well worth it. Had a great day out!
Hassle off course, here is a few things to take note of.
It was an easy walk to the Museum. At a few crossings around town you will get a local come up and stand next to you while waiting for the lights to say cross or a gap in traffic. It’s like any other road in the world, but they will start a conversation and when the lights go cross they cross with you. Every one of them said same thing “walk like an Egyptian”. At the other side they will ask for money for helping you cross the road. This did not happen just once; it was a few times and at different crossing point.
After some hours of walking around I decided on a drink down by the Niles edge. There are many little local coffee stands etc. I picked one ordered a drink and sat down at a park bench close by and took in the view and enjoyed my drink. Just as I finished my drink the stall owner came up and started demanding I pay rent for the bench. He had his own chairs out but this was a park bench, after a while he was getting very instant I pay, at which point I got up and just walked away. Was an enjoyable moment for all of 5 minutes!
Hughada
Flight down to Hughada was all of one hour at best and after picking up bags I head out to meet my pick up. Unlike Cairo there was not too many taxis hassling for business at this airport. Alas again no pick up and this time not many taxi’s around, but finally I flagged one down. Was no big issue the hotel was not far from the airport.
The hotel I booked was the Giftun Azur Resort through booking.com, 6 nights all meals included for $156 US, sounded like a deal to me. The place had a beach, a pool, a gym, a dive shop and many other great features. Apart from the fact it was 98% German guests I had no complaints, lay around the pool most days. Went out diving one day. Grabbed a taxi into town a few times, just generally had a relaxing time and loved it.
Dive boat
Booked this one at the very beginning through liveaboard.com the boat was very nice, was $800US for the week and paid extra for rental gear and Nitrox. The food was nice and plentiful. Super lucky factor was my cabin mate/dive buddy; he was an awesome guy and great diver. This all ways helps.
One big issue was when we sailed out of the harbor we went south to the brothers islands (where we stayed) and not to the Thistlegorm wreck like advertised. The reason I picked this boat, the day of leaving and the reason behind the whole trip, weather they kept saying. Guests where mostly German, however most spoke English. We had some great diving, saw a couple of thrasher sharks and had some great encounters with Oceanic white tip sharks. On the way back to Hughada we dived the sunken ferry MV Salem Express, roll-on/roll off car and passenger ferry that sank December 17, 1992 on way back from Jeddah. It is a grave site so not allowed inside the passenger area but the cargo hold was interesting with upside down Toyota’s.
After a week at sea it’s back to port and off the boat to the airport. Having to have a night in Cairo I decided to not take on the taxi drivers again. This time I splashed out on 5 stars Le Meridien for my final night, just what was needed after a week on boat!
Conclusion
So after traveling for 3 weeks in the area I was glad to be going home. Don’t get me wrong I am glad I did it and loved most of it. But the hassle and scam did get to you after a while. Cairo being the issue, got no hassle in Jordan and very little in Hughada.
How I would do it next time
Flights, webjet is a great way to see who fly’s where and when. Pick your times and your price and then check it on the airlines website, most times they will be a little cheaper. Even if it’s a little more, sometimes it’s worth it to be able to deal with the airline and not a website when things go wrong. But I will never deal with Iberia again.
I do most of my hotel booking on booking.com. When I find what I am looking for, I then spend the time reading the reviews, a couple of bad ones is OK, but to many bad ones and that’s a sign to stay clear.
If I did the pyramids again I think I would find a car to take me there first thing in morning and have them wait for 3 or 4 hours while I walk the site. Meet them back at KFC for the best view LOL.
Missing the Thistlegorm, well am making a plan for that, watch this space.
ENJOY THE JOURNEY